Friday, April 15, 2011

Another Quickie

 

Hey everyone! This is just a quick update. I’m now in Kathmandu and have had a good day and a half to be completely overwhelmed by how different everything here is from anywhere I’ve yet been. It’s incredible!

Tomorrow, early, I leave to fly to Lukla with my friend Jan, and we’ll start our trek to Everest Base Camp immediately upon arrival. Our trek should last about sixteen days and I will not be bringing my computer with me, so things will be fairly quiet here until I get back.

You will notice that I’ve been able to upload more pictures into two more albums: “Indonesia: Bali Adventures continued” and “Indonesia: Lombok and the Gili Islands.” Please enjoy! I will update photos from Singapore and of course, Nepal, when I get back.

I’m doing well and am quite excited (and nervous) for this trek. Send me some good vibes if you think of it in the next two weeks!

Cheers,

Zoe

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

A Few Days in Singapore

Note: I’ve added some more pictures to the “Indonesia: A Bali Adventure” album. My plan is to create and add pictures to two new albums sometime soon: “Indonesia: Lombok and the Gili Islands” and “Singapore: Three Days.” Keep your eyes peeled, but be patient… I’m heading to Kathmandu in a few hours and can’t promise I’ll be able to post pictures anytime soon!

  • Friday, 8 April: Mosied around Padang Bai; got a new book by trading two; relaxed; chatted with English girl at the guesthouse; went to have lunch; Wayan picked me up with his wife and two kids and we drove to Denpasar, stopping at a batik showcase so I could pick up a few things; went to Dwi’s office to pick up her key, then to her apartment, where I relaxed for a bit; Dwi and I stayed in, chatting and relaxing.
  • Saturday, 9 April: Went on a few errands with Dwi; met up with her CS friends and checked out two fancy hotel/resort places; Dwi and I went out for seafood on the beach like our first night; then back to her place to pack and head to bed.
  • Sunday, 10 April: Up early; got to airport early; flight to Singapore went smoothly, bought two books at Denpasar’s airport (one fiction, one “Top Ten” for Singapore); arrived and followed Couchsurfing hostess’s instructions to her apartment, which took me awhile; met Jo, math tutor and Chinese CS host; went out for late lunch/early dinner, local food (char kway teow, noodles, brown sauce and cockles; and Hokkien mee, noodles, white sauce and seafood mix) which was delicious; then off on my own to explore Orchard Street; met up with Jo and her friend at a sheesha place on Arab Street.
  • Monday, 11 April: Very lazy morning, slept in, read book, hunted for tickets to Israel online; eventually went out for lunch with Jo at a Chinatown market place for kaya toast and half-boiled eggs; also had a cheesy raisin bun; then on my own, explored Chinatown for the rest of the afternoon; headed back to Jo’s apartment late and relaxed for the evening; bought KTM-TLV ticket, finally.
  • Tuesday, 12 April: Slept in; out to lunch with Jo; explored Singapore riverfront quays and merlion park; took Singapore River cruise; lunch at Clark Quay; wandered around Ft Canning Park for a bit; went to Little India and wandered; used internet cafe for a bit; back to Jo’s around 8pm; out to dinner with Jo, chili crabs!

 

It’s hard to believe that in five hours, I’ll be flying to Kathmandu. Well, truthfully, I’m flying to Delhi, there to wait four hours and then fly to Kathmandu. My three and a half days in Singapore have been fun and busy and educational. I’ve roamed Chinatown and Little India, taken a bumboat ride on the Singapore River, eaten no end of local foods and visited the National Museum.

I’ve been lucky enough to have an amazing Couchsurfing hostess, Jo, who is friendly and eager and bubbly and intelligent. She is a math teacher and somehow, you know right away upon meeting her that she’s a teacher. She has been generosity itself, accompanying me to all sorts of new culinary delights and giving me pointers on things to do and see and try in Singapore. We’re on a bit of a level: both love to read, both distressed with the state of the world and our inability (thus far) to make a difference, both trying to figure out how to remedy that situation in some small way. Jo is someone I truly hope to bump into again soon, because I know she’ll continue to be an amazing person.

So, what foods have I been trying, you ask? Well, I’ll tell you: chili crabs, laka toast, carrot cake (which is not carrot cake as Americans know it), all manner of Chinese foods, chicken and rice, cockles, and a few other dishes I’m sure I forgot. Truthfully, I’ve stuffed myself these past few days!

And now, in five hours, I head to Kathmandu. Some of the emotions going through me now: nervousness, excitement, fear, thrill. I’ll be met at the airport by a representative of Mountain Monarch, the company I’ll be trekking with, who will take me to my hotel. My friend Jan, a seventy year old woman who has done this trek before, will join me later in the day (her flight arrives several hours after mine). We’ll spend two or three days in Kathmandu before heading off to being our Everest Base Camp trek. I have no idea what distances are involved, but I’m sure that it will be a challenge!

If I don’t post soon, please don’t worry. I’m not sure what the connectivity is like in Kathmandu but I’m sure that the trek will keep me moving enough that I can’t post during it. I’ll be sure to post an update as soon as possible!

Cheers and blog at y’all later!

--Z

Thursday, April 7, 2011

General Note

Hey everyone! Just want to let everyone know that I just put up two new posts (not counting this one, of course), so make sure to scroll down enough to read them both! I haven’t been able to post more pictures yet but will make an effort to find some decent internet!

Cheers,

Zoe

Island Retreat and a Confession

  • Sunday, 3 April: Nice (complimentary) breakfast of fresh fruit, tea and a banana pancake; waited in gloomy rain for my ride, whose driver told me I was supposed to meet him at the shop; lucky he saw me on his way out of town; got to Bamsol and waited for thirty minutes to walk 500 meters to the waterfront, exchange tickets, and wait another forty five minutes; clambered onto a ‘traditional’ boat with four other Westerners and thirty locals (Indonesians), along with several boxes of eggs, fruit and other stuff for the island; on arrival, took up first tout’s offer to see Matahari on the north end of the island; fifteen minute walk later we were there and I had my own cheap bungalow; day spent reading, staring at the beach, taking a short walk, eating dinner and retiring.
  • Monday, 4 April: Slept in; rented a bike and tooled around the island a bit exploring; otherwise, was lazy the entire day except for two short walks; started and finished a book; ate, napped and watched/listened to the water breaks.
  • Tuesday, 5 April: Up early to go on a snorkel trip which ended up not leaving until after 10am due to lack of customers; went with two British girls by paying a little more; motored around all three GIli islands and snorkeled four times, stopping for lunch on Gili Meno, which doesn’t seem as deserted as expected; back to Matahari, took a shower and napped; walked halfway around the island, dinner at Chill Out bar (yum!) with two cocktails; scary walk back in the dark; hung out the rest of the evening with the Matahari guys.
  • Wednesday, 6 April: Slept in, awoke to gorgeous sunny day; walked to harbor after breakfast; found bookshop with books I wanted; meandered back to Matahari via beach; took a nap, got my books, walked back to harbor; haggled for two books and snorkel and fins; sat on beach for a few hours, trying out the snorkel but returning it (twice) for bad leaks; eventually wandered back to Matahari; had lunch; read book; dinner; to bed.
  • Thursday, 7 April: Checked out, paid the bill, took horse and cart back to harbor; waited awhile for boat, reading; gray day; eventually made it to Padang Bai; had lunch, found place to sleep for 90,000rp and read my books; glum mood in the evening, no motivation.

I spent four lovely days at Gili Air, one of three Gili Islands northwest of Lombok, which is the island east of Bali. For me, being in Indonesia has been a fantastic flood of new  IMG_4820experiences and appreciation for a tropical wonderland. Gili Air was more of the latter, to  be honest: an island a kilometer and a half in rough circumference, surrounded by gorgeously different shades of blue sparkly waters, covered with leafy, lush and verdant green plant life, and best of all, no motor vehicles whatsoever. Gili Air is the ‘compromise’ of the other two Gili Islands in the immediate vicinity: Gili Meno supposedly has fewer of everything on it (people, both native and tourist, and establishments) and Gili Trewanga is known as the party island. I found Gili Air to be a wonderful balance for me.

I stayed on the northwest side of the island, where there are fewer hotels or shops or places to eat. It’s low season, so there aren’t too many tourists. I may have met half a IMG_4819dozen during my four days at the same place, called Matahari. I got to know some of the young guys who worked there, as there was not much for them to do most of the time. While none outright propositioned me or made overt insinuations, it was hard to avoid Erab’s wistful looks (he was 19) or Mak’s tough-guy machismo with sideways glances making sure I appreciated his usually shirtless physique. Overall, not annoying, more cute. Pipi, the one who ‘found’ me at the harbor and got me to check out Matahari, was just funny and cheerful.

IMG_4806 A fifteen minute walk – either through the middle of the island or via the easterly beach – had me in the more populated areas. So whatever I felt like, I could have, whether it be peace and quiet and solitude, or to be amongst (some) people. My arrival day and the next day, I opted for peace and quiet with a few meanderings. On the third day, I took a part-day snorkel trip that took me around all three islands. Every day, I had good food three times and no few fruit juices.

IMG_4795My hopes were to recharge at Gili Air. Relax, eat, sleep, sunbathe, snorkel, read, write, whatever I felt like doing. I took a nap in a hammock, spent time looking out at the beautiful water. From Matahari, I could see Gili Meno clearly and in the background, Bali’s mountain, Agung. From the southern part of of Gili Air, I could see Lombok with it’s mountains and clouds. The sunsets were always pretty and there weren’t too many touts, particularly when I hung out at Matahari, so no irritating repetitions of “No, thank you” to every passing person was necessary.

Somehow, though, I’m not recharged. Here’s my confession: I’m tired. Worn out. Topped up. Dazed. Road weary. Overloaded. Numb. Tired.

I’m tired of traveling, which is not something I can believe I’m typing. The thing is, I’m not homesick and it’s not that I miss the old US of A so terribly. It’s just that things aren’t as shiny and exciting anymore. Also, I want to be doing something with myself, applying myself to some tangible end. Instead of getting the pangs of nerves and excitement about my next destinations, I feel a bit resigned to the whole find-a-flight, find-a-place-to-sleep, find-food routine I know I’ll face at each new place. I mean… I am glad I’m going to Singapore and spending a few days there, and I’m looking forward to the trek in Nepal, but … I’m just not psyched any more. The anticipatory thrill is missing.

My wish to fall in love on this trip hasn’t quite manifested in any way I can tell. Sure, I’ve met a heart-throb or two, and I truly adored Cambodia and New Zealand so much that I know I’ll return to both some day. But finding a sense of direction – or one finding me – hasn’t happened. I don’t discount that something could still happen – I hope so! – but, I’m not so confident any more that it will. And I’ve realized something else: I’m tired of being alone all the time.

I’m trying to relax and find my way through what my future will hold. No rash decisions here! I’m brainstorming in excel, writing any possibility down and giving myself a few days to either mull things over, or not, no pressure. I’m not worrying, which is good, although I admit to being a bit ashamed of myself for not making a full year of travel. If that sounds strange, well, I guess I pictured myself as the intrepid traveler, going on for the full year. And now I’m finding that that’s not me. Still, no decisions yet. My general plan at the moment is to meet my folks in Israel in mid-May. I’m researching possibilities there, such as language or volunteer programs. At the moment, my theory is that I need to stay in one place for a few months. Have something that feels like home, cook for myself, have an obligation to attend to, make friends whom I see more than once or twice before going to a new place with new faces.

This has been edging in on my thoughts for awhile now and, while it makes me sad, it also makes me realize that things are within my power to control. The thing is, I don’t want to miss out on the awe and amazement that being somewhere new gives me and at times, I feel that slipping away.

Then again… today as I sat atop the boat from Gili Air to Lombok to Bali, I looked up from the book I was reading and made myself blink a few times. We were passing the folded, green mountains of Lombok and for a moment, my heart turned over. I’m on a boat in Indonesia, watching the tropical jungle-y mountains, cloud wreathed, go by, I thought to myself, smiling. Pretty flippin’ cool!

IMG_4785

--Z

Sunday, April 3, 2011

No A/C Here!

  • Friday, 1 April: Got up around 7:30am, but missed the departure of Nyoman to IMG_4766 Besakih; had breakfast of toast, honey, fruit and tea; walked around my little section of Amed for a couple of hours, stopping at an internet place for awhile; met many Balinese along the way, many trying to sell me transport or programs, but some just curious, I think; investigated prices of Amed boat to Gili Islands and found that Nyoman’s was not far off; swam in the resort pool; read a book; had delicious dinner of urab (boiled vegetables, coconut and peanut sauce) and grilled barracuda, yum!; to bed early with twisty tummy.
  • Saturday, 2 April: Awoken by Nyoman knocking on my door; the boat from Amed was broken so I was to hurry, pack, eat breakfast and take a taxi to Padang Bai, where I would catch a boat to the Gili Islands; almost two hours later I was on my way (“hurry” is relative here); got to Padang Bai too late for fast boat, so took uber-slow boat to Lombar, then a van to Senggigi; booked cheap room (about $9), ate good gado-gado and relaxed.

 

Crickets chirping, sweat dripping, Sasak language floating around in the night. It’s been an interesting day, mostly good because my stomach hasn’t bothered me much at all, but frustrating because of changes in plans and timelines.

Original plan as of last night: Nyoman of Amed’s Rising Star Resort – where I was staying –IMG_4768 would drive me to the Amed speed boat, I would try to barter them down by 50,000 rp (around $5USD), then head to Gili Islands. As it turned out, the boat was broken, and Nyoman woke me a bit earlier than expected to tell me this. He had arranged for someone to come pick me up, however, and take me to Padang Bai, where I could catch a boat to the Gili’s. I rushed through packing and dressing and eating breakfast, then couldn’t find Nyoman anywhere.

Over an hour later, my worried pacing brought me near some steps and there he was. “Ready?” he asked. I blinked. Half an hour after that, a young man picked me up in an SUV whose A/C was broken and cheerfully played hip-hop reggae on the ninety minute drive to Padang Bai. This young Balinese man explained that I would take a slow ferry to Lombok, then a bus to Senggigi, then a fast boat to the Gili’s, all today. Sounded good to me and I was getting a good price, I thought, because Nyoman had arranged it all.

Upon arrival in Padang Bai, however, it turned out I was too late to make it all the way to the Gili’s (it was 10:30am at this point), so I would have to spend the night in Senggigi. I admit to being a bit tiffed, then, but what could I do? The ferry ride to Lombok, the island next to Bali and very different in population, was four hours long, boring and stiflingly hot in the shaded area. No A/C on these ferries! I finished the book I had bought the day before and tried to politely, smilingly, wave away all the women doggedly attempting to sell me water, snacks, sarongs or sunglasses.

At the Senggigi port, I was quickly met by many men asking for my onward ticket. This worried me, especially when the ticket was grabbed out of my hands and passed around the crowd. Luckily, a young Sasak man (that’s what the population is called in Lombok) waved me forward and led me to a minivan. Then followed a forty-five minute drive along the west coast of Lombok to Senggigi, the driver and his companion chatting amongst themselves and leaving me to watch the countryside. They were friendly and polite, but I wasn’t much for talking, trying to conserve my energy for cooling my hot, sweaty skin. No A/C in this minivan!

We pulled into a little shop which had a name completely different from the one on my ticket, but they accepted my ticket and then cheerfully attempted to sell me accommodations (in Senggigi and the Gili’s), a dive trip, a Komodo Dragon trip and a few other things. I opted for going out to have lunch and relax. At their recommendation, I went next door, and it turned out to be good food at a good price. The orange juice with ice was spectacular with the way the heat and humidity were affecting me. After my meal, which could more appropriately be called an early dinner, I walked along the main road looking for hotels. The one I found in a cheap-ish range was full and the others were highly priced, particularly for a low season, but they were also big places. I couldn’t seem to find the small ones.

I was getting hotter and farther away from my big pack at the travel shop, was about to give up, when another young Sasak came to my rescue. First he asked if I smoked, and when I declined, he asked me to sit next to him and chat. When I told him I couldn’t because I was looking for a hotel, he recommended I check the homestay down his alley. At that point, I would have tried anything. As it turns out, Sonya’s is dirt cheap. I got the last free room and then set out to walk the twenty minutes back to the shop. The friendly young Sasak guy greeted me easily at the alley’s opening onto the street, same place he’d first spoken to me, and asked where I was off to. I told him and he asked around his friends, one of whom offered to take me on his motorbike for 10,000 rp (a little more than a dollar US). I agreed immediately.

Returning to Sonya’s with my big pack, I was quite happy. One young Sasak who’d waved at me earlier did proposition me - “Later, I cool you off, eh? Why not?” – but shrugging him off with a grin and a wave wasn’t so hard or irritating as usual.

And now? Now, the crickets are chirping and I’m sweating all over my netbook as I type this out in front of my little room, which contains a bare sawed off pipe for a shower, a mosquito-netted mattress and a table-fan.

It should come as no surprise… no A/C here!

--Z

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Balinese Men and Balinese Bugs

  • IMG_4294 Friday, 25 March: Wandered around Ubud on foot; went to Monkey Forest park; explored shops and side streets; saw Jegog show (all-bamboo gamelan, with Offering/Welcome, Farmer, Swan and one other dance).
  • Saturday, 26 March: Wandered Ubud again; did a rice paddy walk where I couldn’t find the alternate way IMG_4433back;  saw Legong show at Ubud Palace with Puspa Wresti (Offering dance), Topeng Keras (Mask dance), Legong Kraton (traditional dance), Kebyar Duduk/Taruna Jaya (Warrior dance), Kupu-Kupu Tarum (Butterfly dance), Oleg Tambulilingan (Bumblebee and Flower dance) and Jauk (Demon dance).
  • IMG_4460 Sunday, 27 March: Second rice paddy walk, starting from the other side; found where a dirt track coming up out of a ravine intersected the path I took Saturday; got a massage on Jalam Pajeng, after lunch; wandered a bit more in Ubud; early night in.
  • Monday, 28 March: Slept in, missed Wayan visit in the IMG_4522 morning; Cousin Wayan picked me up late morning; visited Gunung Kawi, the old stone temple; coffee plantation where I bought dad some Luwak coffee; fruit stand where I bought rambutan, mangonese and snakeskin fruit; Tirta Empul, the holy water spring temple; and booked a cooking class for the next day; late getting back!
  • Tuesday, 29 March: Cooking class in the morning with market visit; memory card not readable by camera so bought new IMG_4564one  after class; rested for a bit at hotel; Cousin Wayan picked me up in the afternoon and we went to Pura Taman Ayun (Beautiful Garden Temple) & Tanah Lot (Ocean Temple), and a wood carver where I bought a Barong mask made of ebony wood.
  • Wednesday, 30 March: Rented motorbike; went to IMG_4627 Barong show out of town; motored around; mailed package home; went to Yeh Pulu (relief carvings); got foot massage; motored in circles but eventually found Laka Leke for crispy duck and saw Barong dance again with dinner.
  • Thursday, 31 March: No hot shower made me grumpy IMG_4746in the morning; checked out and headed east with Wayan; went to Taman Gili (water island park) and Kerta Gosa (court platform with pictures on the ceiling); then to Goa Lawah (bat caves) but there was a cremation ceremony going on so I didn’t see the bats; and Tirtagangga water palace (gorgeous!); drove by amazing rice terraces; then to Amed where I checked into the Rising Star resort, negotiated down the price a little and got invited to go to a ceremony at Bali’s mother temple tomorrow!; raining!

It’s night time, the waves are crashing and the wind is blowing. I’m on the east coast of Bali, in Amed. In truth, I’m not in Amed, which is the name of a particular village but is generally used for the area I’m in. In any case, close enough. Where was I? Ah. Yes. The waves are crashing and I can hear them, you see, because the ocean is about fifty feet away. It’s comfortable here in my big room, complete with AC and hot water, at the Rising Star Resort. There’s a fresh water pool in the courtyard, which the four rooms of the resort look upon. The term resort in Bali is used indiscriminately, although possibly as a way to charge a bit more. It is a nice place, though… gorgeous lush green gardens, balcony, crashing waves and bluey-green pool.

Not bad! A bit pricey perhaps, although I got him to lower the price slightly. He is Nyoman, the village leader and owner of the resort. He let me know that he was single. And he has a bit of a temper, one of the first I’ve seen in Bali. He was quite upset that I didn’t have dinner at the resort, grilled fish as he’d offered when I checked in earlier. Unfortunately, he wasn’t around when I came down for dinner, and the women who were there brought me a breakfast menu and told me that was all they could serve. When I asked where one could get dinner, they escorted me across the street.

[As a side note, this is the second display of displeasure I’ve seen in the same day. Earlier, at a water temple I visited, an old woman carrying bundles of some long, green plant on her head spit full-on in my face. I have no idea why, as we had not spoken or interacted in any way besides passing as we went opposite directions. Completely strange. She just stared at me afterwards, not moving or with any emotion besides possible derision on her face.]

Anyway, across the street from the Rising Star Resort, a trio of women of varying ages but singular beauty greeted me, along with two young men who seemed bent on impressing me once they discovered I was there alone. More young local men trickled in and they began to play music for me. Well, perhaps they play together regularly, but tonight I was there and was the only one, so they played for me. The leader of the band was Nyoman as well. He plays the guitar well, even if the strings are rotting out, and he sings nicely, although his tongue piercing and halting English make most of his singing sound a bit slurred. The other instruments included a rather nice-sounding bongo drum, a ridged and empty glass Fanta bottle played with a metal knife, and an old, tattered tambourine. All in all, though, it was a nice evening. The men all beckoned me to come sit closer to their playing stage, which wasn’t too hard since it was five feet away.

I claim, in general, to have a boyfriend back home studying law. This ploy works in some places, but does not work well in Bali, where finding out I’m traveling solo seems to be a flag for the male Balinese population to hit on me. And they’re all so young, mostly! It’s a bit disconcerting, especially paired with the fact that they would all like to make a “program” for me for the next day. That is, they would like to be my (paid) guide and take me to various attractions around the area, from which they no doubt get a commission in some cases, especially if I buy anything. Reading what I’ve just typed, it doesn’t sound so bad, just cynical. Just try having a peaceful dinner, though, when six guys playing a motley assortment of instruments take turns smiling and making eyes at you, taking breaks only to try to convince you to stay at their hotel and go on their program, and eat only at their restaurant. And that’s the extent of the conversation, besides giggling and chattering in Balinese, when they pointedly glance at me and grin wolfishly. Ok, perhaps that’s a paranoid description on my part, but there you go.

Now imagine that this is the same experience I have almost every single place I go. At times it’s flattering. Mostly, though, it’s starting to get on my nerves.

The other part of the problem is that I seem to have picked up a stomach bug. Just when I’m about to reach paradise (or at least, empty quiet beaches)… dangit! I’m putting off taking the antibiotics because it’s only been one day. Ok, maybe two. But it’s nothing like in Cambodia, just some mild bathroom issues. I’m taking the “wait it out” approach and hope I won’t be sorry tomorrow. The minute I start to feel nauseous, I’ll start the antibiotics, but they exhaust me and drain me of all ability to function, so preferably the bug just finds it’s way out with everything else. So to speak.

Bet you’re glad I’m so thorough in these blogs, huh…

--Z