Sunday, June 24, 2012

Update & Travel Reflections

I'm sitting here in my friend Sarah's apartment in Washington, DC. She's been good enough to give me free reign of her couch until I move into my own place, which will be next Saturday.

It's been a tough week plus being back in the US. Not tough in reality, but in my head. First, trying to wrap my head around not traveling as a way of life any more; second, actively making the various decisions involved with getting ready to start a new job; and third, recovering from my travels, both the recent trip to Sri Lanka and Turkey and the entire last twenty-two months.

To start with, I'm finally getting used to the idea of living in DC. After a few days of roaming and exploring on my own, both on foot and on bike, it's starting to feel less onerous to "settle" in DC, and more exciting. To be honest, I can't yet say that I'm thrilled to be putting down in one place yet; it's too soon for that. But I'm getting used to the idea and not feeling so much dread, anyway. I've been looking around at different things to get involved in: community gardens, hiking groups, farmer's markets and so on. It's fun - and frustrating - to think about how I'd like to live, in terms of frugality of how to spend my time, money and efforts to be 'green' or at least less wasteful.

On the other hand, I still find myself moping now and then. One of the things I took from this last trip is an exact opposite from what I tried to glean from my year abroad; that is, I'm no longer trying to convince myself that being alone is fine. I don't want to be alone any more. I want to meet someone, I want to care about a person who cares about me, and start living a life together. How to do this, I'm not sure, but I do know it's something I want.

Other reflections from my travels? I find myself more motivated to be involved with helping people in some way; English lessons, perhaps, or volunteering in some fashion. I find myself judging my society and myself, knowing what others have, and have access to, as compared to us, and how little we even know we have.

Also, I want to become fluent in another language, and that language is going to be Spanish. I hope to combine Rosetta Stone with finding a local conversation group.

I want to minimize my "stuff" and my spending. And increase my walking and biking and hiking. I want to manifest my travels into a book, be it one of pictures or stories or both, not sure yet. I want to host people from Couchsurfing. And I really want to be more knowledgeable about my building, my neighborhood, my city and my country in terms of news and politics and basic history.

So, yeah, I want to open my eyes and my mind wider. That should be easy... right?!

Thursday, June 14, 2012

Turkey: Cappedoccia Whirlwind

Tuesday, 12 June

So yesterday I took a shuttle to the main road and then a minivan to Antalya, and from there a bus to Goreme, which took about ten hours. I asked the hotel information center to call the place reserved for me by Alaturka, Shoestring Cave Hotel, and forty minutes later a car came and got me, toted me and my stuff the four minute drive away. It was around seven in the morning.

DSCN1440Goreme is a neat little town in a hot, rocky, dessert-like, barren kind of place. There are stone cones everywhere, natural formations most of them, dug out into residences, hotels, restaurants and shops. Most hotel or hostel names have the word “cave” in them somewhere. At Shoestring, I checked into the dorms, which truly felt cave-like: dark, cool and packed with beds. There were actually four adjoining caves and I picked one further back. After getting somewhat settled without waking the other dorm residents, I tramped upstairs to a higher cave for breakfast.

Later in the morning, I was picked up by a Nese Tour minivan, which already had several people inside, and off we went to see the south part of Cappedoccia – which, incidentally, DSCN1448has about half a dozen different spellings. The tour included seeing beautiful valleys and panoramic views of the fairy chimneys; this is what they call the tall spires and conical rock structures that even long ago served as domiciles, kitchens, churches and castles. I would like to learn a bit more about how they were formed because all our guide could say was that it’s due to ancient eruptions and lava formations. But I’ve seen other volcanic areas that don’t have such strange formations, so there must be more at work.

We also saw an underground city which was fairly incredible, with air ducts and areas for animal stalls, kitchens and yes, churches and a monastery. The tour lasted until six in the evening, including lunch. Once I was back at Shoestring, I felt the exhaustion settle in and within two hours I had gotten a nibble to eat for dinner and gone to bed. Oh, and I’d also made some plans for early the next morning…

Wednesday, 13 June

My alarm went off at 4:15am and I scrabbled to shut it off before other dorm sleepers could be disturbed. I scrabbled in the cool darkness for the stack of clothes I’d set out the night before, found my hat and sunglasses and day pack, and stumbled out the low cave doorways into the pre-dawn morning. I blinked and hemmed and hawed myself awake until about 5am, when the Urgup Balloons minivan pulled up to collect me. After making a stop to sort us into different groups (mine was the orange group), we drove quite a ways out of town, spotting the monstrous balloons being DSCN1549inflated in fields along the way. It was a magical kind of thing, seeing these huge contraptions in various states of being.

The sun had just risen when we were deposited near three inflating balloons and pointed to the one that was ours. There were maybe eleven of us and we all gazed around as bursts of sound came from each balloon as it was fired up. Ours was the last in our particular area to inflate, which made me happy since I could watch the entire process. When the whole thing was upright, it was time for us to clamber into the basket, which was sectioned off into five parts: a center aisle for the pilot and four corner spots for the passengers, with two or three per slot. The arrangement was quite nice because we could all see and stand along the basket’s edge.

DSCN1561The flight was so magically smooth, with no heaving or drops or anything to make the stomach uncomfortable. Takeoff was just a smooth, slight lifting feeling, barely noticeable. I particularly loved watching as we rose above other balloons: they’re just so massive, yet move so smoothly! Our pilot seemed particularly good, joking (“I name my balloon Titanic!” or “First flight? Yes, me too!” or “And now we clean bottom of basket with trees.”) and pointing out features of the DSCN1624landscape to us. We rose three kilometers into the sky at one point and could see probably a hundred balloons around and below us. He brought us low enough into a valley to talk to some hikers there and ensuring that the balloon was always rotating, but very slowly, to allow everyone a good view at all times.

The flight lasted almost exactly an hour, during which we descended into two valleys and floated across the landscape for miles. It was quiet in the air except for the whoom sound of the furnace blasts keeping our balloon full. I couldn’t quite make out how it all worked, since sometimes the pilot would fire it and we would descend, whereas sometimes we would rise without any action I could make out. Very strange! And the landscape, eerily formed cones and fairy chimneys and banded colors at every turn, just added to the oddness of it all. Toss in sunrise and the cool of the morning and altitude and it was just perfect!

The landing was as impressive as the rest of the flight: a small trailer, only inches bigger than the basket itself, was pulled by a truck into the walking path on a farm and the pilot – I swear! – landed right on it. The crew pulled on ropes and yanked it into perfect place and then we were down! It was really stunning and we all cheered before climbing out of the basket. The crew quickly set up a small table with a tip box DSCN1632surrounded by champagne glasses filled with sparkling cider. The pilot explained to us that it was a tradition to toast the flight, each time, and so toast we did! They handed out certificates with our names on them, declaring that we’d had a balloon flight, and then we were whisked off to our respective hotels. What a morning!

My day wasn’t over yet: after breakfast, Nese Tours came by again and picked me up for the northern part of the Cappedoccia tour. It was a different group than the day before, consisting of two Turkish men, two Australian couples and an Irish guy. We must have visited eight or nine places! The guide today was brand new and it showed. Most of his “guiding” consisted of minimal rote-memorized history and facts followed by “And now I give you ten minutes free time.” It was a bit disappointing but it was still fascinating seeing the castle made out of stone caves; fairy chimneys balancing huge rocks on top of spindly spires; ancient churches and their DSCN1746frescoes in the stone cliffs; a fancy lunch; and a wine tasting at the very end. I ended up chatting mostly with the Turkish guys, who were friendly and cheerful and helped me with my shopping.

It was an exhausting day, hotter than ever and with so much to take in. When I was dropped back at Shoestring, I immediately went off to town to find a bag: I’ve been buying way too much stuff, too much to fit in my pack anymore! I ended up at a little place with a kindly older gentleman in it who climbed on his work table to pull down a variety of bags for me to look at. I also nabbed a turban, a bit late perhaps but still fun to have, and seem to have made a nice impression on the guy because he pinned a little good luck charm on my shirt before sending me on my way. His prices were very fair, too, which was nice after the hiked-price souvenir shopping of the day.

I went for a swim at the Shoestring Pool (icy cold, so lovely!), showered, repacked and headed off for the bus station (“otogar” in Turkish). I’d left myself an hour so I could stow my packs somewhere and have dinner, but it turned out my bus arrived about an hour late. Never mind, I was comfortably tired and managed to konk out admirably for good chunks of the twelve hour bus ride.

Thursday, 14 June

Here I sit on the first leg of my trip home: Istanbul to London. This morning I arrived to the main Istanbul otogar at around 7:30am. From there I took the metro to Aksaray and found an internet café to noodle around at and, later, a café to break my fast at. I whiled away the time there, booking myself a lodge for my evening in London and catching up on the news and happenings of friends and family via e-mail and Facebook. Eventually I hopped back on the metro and off I went to the airport, good and early for this flight, which left just twenty minutes late but seems on track to land on time.

***several hours later***

Made it to Heathrow Hostel, which I booked online as a 4-bed dorm near the airport. Through a series of unfortunate (and all completely my fault) incidents, it took me forever to find it via bus (should’ve taken the underground) and then find the address (I just didn’t think it could be the pub). But now here I am in a mixed 7-bed dorm above the White Bear Pub… ah well, I’ve learned how to get to the airport quickly now and feasted on a dinner of veggie pizza. My plan is to go to bed early and actually get a good night’s sleep, how about that!

Monday, June 11, 2012

Turkey: A Vacation from my Vacation

 

Thursday, 7 June

After all the flights and buses to get me from Colombo, Sri Lanka, to Fethiye, Turkey, I arrived at Fethiye Guest House. Let me take a moment and tell you how this itinerary of mine took shape.

A few days before I left Sri Lanka, I was perusing the Lonely Planet forums for stuff to do in Turkey. I had an idea of what I wanted to do – Cappedoccia hiking and possibly a gulet boat cruise too – but my “planning” wasn’t going anywhere and mostly I just felt tired and fairly unenthusiastic. I came across a post by someone who highly recommended and praised Alaturka, a tour company that did so-called “blue cruises” along with other major Turkey destination tours. So I sent an inquiry via their website and signed off, resigned to figuring it all out when I arrived in Istanbul.

Less than three hours later I had a note back from Ned at Alaturka, making recommendations and quoting some prices. Surprised, I actually started actively pondering what I wanted and wrote back some questions and possibilities. Ned responded every time, helpful and positive about everything. And so, I decided to let a company cart me around for my week in Turkey!

DSCN1164Fethiye Guest House was invited, looking over the harbor and with friendly Australian accents greeting me at the desk. My eyes teared up as everything was taken care of so easily: dinner ordered out for me, questions answered, concerns soothed, bed reserved. The guest house oozed good cheer and chilled out vibes, just what my travel-weary and heart-bruised self needed. I went to bed hoping that the next day would continue to be as great.

Friday, 8 June

Turkish breakfasts are pretty yummy, you know? Salty cheeses, olives, crusty bread, tomatoes, cucumbers, yogurt, tea. I’m continuing the vegetarian thing so far and it’s going well. I packed up, showered, internetted and chatted with the friendly guest house folks, staff and other customers alike. Finally, I made my way to the Alaturka shop just a five minute walk away and arranged my trip with the planners there, including the boat ride and Cappedoccia trip afterwards, all the way to getting me to the Istanbul airport in time for my early afternoon flight on the fifteenth.

There was time to go shmooze a bit at the guest house, and do some last minute shopping for sunscreen, a towel and a hat, so off I went. Eventually I met quite a few of my boat-mates: two couples from Australia and one from Canada, an Australian guy, a Japanese girl, and a gaggle of six Canadian girls traveling together. All told, fifteen of us. Finally, around noon, we were all told to walk on down to the harbor and board our ship, the Alaturka.

DSCN1246We met our captain and crew, a total of three Turkish men, and were assigned our cabins. I shared with Sawako, the Japanese girl. Within an hour we were zooming out into the amazingly turquoise waters of southern Turkey, wind in our faces and sunshine on our skin. That first day we visited Butterfly Valley and St Nicholas Island. I saw just a single butterfly but enjoyed the gorgeous bay and a pretty hike to a tiny waterfall at Butterfly Valley. At St. Nicholas island we hiked up past ruins of churches and buildings to enjoy a spectacular sunset.

I was one of the only people to sleep up on deck and it was really nice: salt tang in the air, chilly night, and the stars. It was fun getting to know everyone and we all seem to be getting along pretty well. The swimming is amazing: I can see the bottom usually, the water is that clear!

Saturday, 9 June

The captain had parked us in a small bay near a few other boats and we woke up to enjoy a beautiful blue morning. We set off before breakfast to spend some time in another small bay, this time with no one else around, and I went for a swim in the crystal waters. DSCN1305Seriously, the water here is amazing: blues of all hues and clear as a bell. You can see fish far below sometimes, even while you’re swimming! After breakfast we all settled in to sun a bit as we zoomed towards Kas. There, Sawako and I went for a scuba dive in the beautiful waters. There weren’t as many fish as I’d hoped, but there were plenty to see and old amphoras, or shattered jugs and pottery from who-knows-when-in-history, which were very cool. It was quite cold, though, and I think it’s the deepest dive I’ve done, at about 20 meters, and I was pretty dizzy once back on the boat. It passed after awhile, but it bothered (and bothers) me that I was so affected.

Anyhow, back on the boat I had lunch with everyone else. The food on the boat is pretty darned good, with plenty for the vegetarians, three others besides myself. There’s always white crusty bread and something with tomatoes and cucumbers; generally a pasta dish of some sort; and some other interesting Turkish yummy to be had. The crew cooks each meal and does a pretty great job!

DSCN1170We got some time to wander around Kas a bit. I ended up buying a few necklaces for me and a bottle of rum for the boat, along with some postcards. After that we were off cruising again. This evening we parked in a small, remote bay with a tiny little beach to swim to and no other boats to disturb us. Taking this boat trip is really feeling like a vacation from a vacation! I’m relaxing, enjoying sunshine and wind and stars and water and easy socializing, eating and napping and reading, taking pictures and generally zoning out. It’s great!

Others joined me on deck to sleep, plus I got to share some of my astronomy knowledge as I pointed out constellations and the north star. Woo! The other passengers are really easy to get along with, easygoing and fun. Julian is a forty year old Australian cameraman for a news company; Claire and Dane, Will and Sophie are mid-twenties Australians on half-year trips or so, two couples that met during their travels I think. Chris and Jamila are a Canadian couple from Vancouver, also mid-twenties, and Sawako is a Japanese web designer, twenty-eight. We all get along really well.

Sunday, June 10

DSCN1382Woke up a bit later this morning after a really good sleep! We didn’t leave our pretty little bay until after breakfast and then we were off to Semalina, where we could (and did) go ashore to climb up to an ancient Lycian castle. I stopped at a little shop and got some pretty white embroidered pillow cases in Semalina before hopping back on the boat for more stress-free boat time. We motored through a sunken city, which was ruins off the coast of a small island, which was neat. That night we went to “smuggler’s cove”, a bar on a rocky island with absolutely nothing else around. Literally, and island with a bar and that’s it. It was fun and overpriced and loud, but still a neat experience. We all ended up back on our boat listening to music and watching the stars and chatting.

Monday, June 11

Our finally morning on the boat was just as lazy as all the previous ones. I went for three morning swims before we motored on to Demre and disembarked, saying good-bye to the DSCN1429crew and to each other. I ended up tagging along with the three couples to Olympos, where they are all staying for a night or two. The owner of Saban Guest House is a nice lady who offered immediately to store my stuff and let me use their showers after a day of hanging out on the beach. She also advised me on how to get to Antalya to catch my overnight bus to Goreme and Cappedoccia. Super awesome! The beach was beautiful but really hot, of the rock variety as opposed to sand. I lasted for an hour and a half before coming back to the guest house to shower and cool off, and here I sit, writing away!

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Sri Lanka: Last Days

Saturday, 2 June

Our tuk-tuk delivered us to Deep Sea resort and even at that early hour with bleary eyes I could tell that Batti was not the same kind of beach town as Trinco. Deep Sea seemed to be in the middle of nowhere, with nothing around it that I could make out in the darkness. In any case, we got a double room and after noticing that what Jutta had told us, that these were the cleanest rooms she’d seen yet in Sri Lanka, we went straight to bed.

DSCN0957Later that morning we got up and went to re-connect with Jutta and Sophie, who were sharing a room. Jutta was off to do a dive, so the rest of us lazed around until she got back. Beny, Sophie and I ended up going to town together, and after we’d eaten lunch Jutta joined us. We wandered the town of Batticaloa, which wasn’t too exciting. We visited the locked gate of the local ancient fort (turned out later we could have gone around back to get inside); chatted with the tourist information booth guys; did a little shopping; and relished what little shade and breeze we could find. It was a hot, hot day.

We motored out to a nearby lighthouse, which turned out to be the highlight of the day. We DSCN0969were allowed to climb to the top, from where we could see fine views of Batticaloa and surrounds, particularly the beautiful blue waters. After we enjoyed the panorama we headed in a full tuk-tuk back to Deep Sea. That night, we dined and drank with many new friends: three touring Sri Lankans from Colombo also staying at Deep Sea; and Push, a local Couchsurfer who Beny had contacted, along with his American friend Bennett. We all ate, drank and became very, very merry.

My original plan was to say good-bye to everyone that night and set off on my own the next day, slowly making my way back to Colombo. Push, however, convinced me otherwise in my woozy-headed state, and so I went to bed that night happy that the good-byes were postponed.

Sunday, 3 June

We woke up after Jutta and Sophie had departed on a boat for another dive. I wrote them a quick note saying good-bye and then we waited for a tuk-tuk driver to come and take Beny, me and our stuff over to Bennett’s house. Bennett is an American who has lived eight months of every year since the 2004 tsunami in Sri Lanka, trying to help out locals with basic projects. He’s created an organization to help get money over, but it’s a small, simple and straightforward kind of thing. Push has a temporary home with no extra bed, while Bennett has a guest bed, and so Push arranged that we stay with Bennett.

It was a fascinating Couchsurfing experience! Not only did we get to meet and learn about DSCN0995Bennett and his work, but he and Push and another friend, Ragu, took us around and showed us different parts of Batti, including a lovely Hindu temple and a quiet swimming area near the lighthouse. This part was particularly fun because we had to wade through some marshy water and across an “Eco Park” consisting of sand and strange animal statues before getting to the beach. Beny was still nursing his leg wound and so had to be carried through the marshy part, causing endless amusement for the rest of us.

That evening, Bennett had other friends over and we all had a home cooked dinner together – compliments of Ragu, a really sweet guy who has a talent for cooking. After an evening of laughter and fun, toddy and arrack, I packed up my things and squeezed into the single bed with Beny, trying hard to allay the empty-chest feeling of setting off on my own the next day.

Monday, 4 June

Morning came, as it inevitably does, and I rechecked my bags, had some tea and after saying good-bye to Bennett and Beny, hopped onto the back of Push’s bike to go to the DSCN1059bus. Over four hours and one bus change later, I arrived in Habarana. At the recommendation of Jutta’s dive guide, I went directly to Acme Guest House (1,500 rps/night, fan), which was a little overpriced and way over-touristy, but convenient and friendly. They helped me arrange a safari in Deniyaya National Park nearby and after a buffet lunch and a bit of a rest, the jeep came to pick me up. Off I went, paying yet another exorbitant price to get into the park (3,800 rps plus 3,000 for the jeep). I was the only one in my jeep (bad planning on my part) besides my driver and my guide, which was nice; no squeezing in with five other people, fighting for space to see and take pictures! I stood for most of the safari, eyes trying to catch movement and scenery.

DSCN1095I saw elephants, lots of them with babies, peacocks, monkeys, water buffalo and many birds. We also saw jackals, which surprised me. It was a fun trip and yet bittersweet, because I was alone, and I missed Beny and Jutta and Sophie. That evening, after the safari jeep dropped me back at Acme, I ventured out to find a cheap dinner of hoppers with egg and coconut milk. Then I did my usual “alone-again” activity: holed up in my room and wrote in my blog! Actually, it was too stuffy in my room so I sat out in the open-air reception area, where a young man did his best to hit on me, awkwardly asking if I’d like him to come to my room. Oy.

Tuesday, 5 June

It was actually a bit nice to wake up and do things at my own speed in the morning, although I still had that lonely ache in my chest. Ignoring it, I bustled about and caught a bus to Dambulla. It was more crowded than I expected so I stood for the forty-five minute ride. As soon as I got off the bus I crossed the street and entered a little hotel (which means restaurant, or café, here) for a bite to eat. An older woman working there took a liking to me after some communication problems,checking on me throughout my short meal and smiling each time. A tuk-tuk driver came in and asked the inevitable questions: “Where from?” and “How long Sri Lanka?” and “Where going?” and “Like Sri Lanka?” He pointed out his tuk-tuk to me outside and indicated that I should come find him when I wanted to go somewhere, then smiling, backed away.

DSCN1102I finished my egg bun – literally, a small bun sliced open with some hard-boiled egg slices crammed in, and two cucumber slices – and a sweet bun, then went out and hailed the tuk-tuk driver. He took me to Dambulla Caves and gave me his number so I could let him know when to come get me.

Dambulla Caves is an interesting place. You climb up a whole lot of stairs, past other visitors and pineapple stands and people selling arts or wares; gain a pretty view of the surrounding DSCN1109countryside; and finally, huffing and puffing, arrive at the top of a large hill, where you must leave your shoes before entering a complex of… you guessed it, caves. There were four or five caves, some cavernous and others rather small, and each had a myriad of Buddhas inside, either painted on the walls or ceilings or in the form of statues, both rough and delicate. I had declined to take a guide, as I could barely understand them anyway, and so just enjoyed the quiet majesty of the place, and took lots of pictures.

I spent about an hour wandering around and then descended, called the driver, and headed back to the bus stand. The driver did his best DSCN1113to suggest that I stay the night in Dambulla so that he could take me out and show me around, insinuating with ever less delicacy how much fun he could be, but somehow I resisted. I managed to pay him and escape, but not without him doing this weird thing that guys have done before in foreign countries, which is to shake my hand with his middle finger scratching my palm. I’m not sure what it means but it always leaves me feeling dirty, as generally a suggestive waggle of the eyebrows or leer goes with it. Ugh.

Anyway, I stood patiently watching for buses to Colombo, hoping for an AC minibus but quickly losing hope. I noticed a well-dressed young couple, Sri Lankan, waiting and starting forward each time a Colombo-bound bus whizzed by, and so I started to chat with them. It turns out they were just married last week and the husband was headed back to Qatar, where he worked as a kitchen manager. He’d been there for two years previously and this stint would last five years. They were a deliriously happy and sweet couple, which was nice to see. We decided that an AC minibus was impossible and so we crammed onto one of the regular government buses, standing mashed up against each other for awhile, making chit-chat now and again. They bought my bus ticket for me, against my protest, bought me an impossibly sweet fruit drink at the one rest stop, and insisted I take the first seat the became available, about halfway through the five hour trip.

They got off before Colombo and we traded contact info; then I was on my own for the remainder of the trip, which wasn’t too long. I quickly made it to Subodha’s home and was able to rest and relax, chatting with his in-laws, who were home watching Akita, his two and a half year old son. That night dinner consisted of string hoppers and curries and I expressed an interest in knowing how to make them. Talini promised me that Lakshmi, their servant, would show me the next day. I tumbled into the large guest bed, feeling again the strangeness of being by myself, and feeling a bit sad.

Wednesday, 6 June

After a shower, quick tea and breakfast, and hurriedly packing my day pack, I hopped in the car with Subodha, Talini and Akita. First we dropped Akita at school, then Talini at work. Subodha then dropped me off at Galle Face Green, a stretch of unhealthy grass along a coastal walkway. It was a nice morning, warm but not yet disgustingly hot, with a good stiff DSCN1146breeze off the water, which was crashing away against itself with waves. Somehow, as soon as Subodha zoomed off, I found myself breaking down. I sat with my legs dangling off the beach wall, letting my chest ache and the breath wheeze and tears fall. 

Why was I so sad? It was partly to do with Beny, with whom I’d traveled as a couple for almost five weeks, and the fact that I missed him sorely and felt somewhat unrequited in this; and partly to do with my disappointment of not having traveled more with Jutta; and also partly the whole “lonesome” feeling that separating from travel companions always leaves me with. Lastly, it was my last day in Sri Lanka and the beginning of the end of this trip. I guess it all just came bubbling up and the sea, always full of emotion and beauty for me, triggered my sadness.

So I let myself cry out, listening to the waves and ignoring the occasional passer-by. After a short while I felt better, and a bit light-headed, and so I walked up and down the shore. There were couples prancing in the waves, salespeople manning some of the many little booths that lined the way, and families out for a walk. In the distance over the sea was the solid gray of rain clouds and sure enough, it drizzled a bit on me, though not enough to soak. After sea-gazing and walking and getting myself sorted out for about an hour, I decided to head for Odel, a mall that Talini suggested I might like to visit.

Feeling a bit wrung out, I decided to walk, which ended up meaning I became a sweaty mess after another long hour of walking. When I arrived, though, how luxurious the air-conditioned mall seemed! It wasn’t spacious, like the ones back home, but it was cool and full of all sorts of goods. I didn’t buy a thing, but just wandered from store to store, browsing, and treating myself to a frozen fruit drink at one point. Eventually, I was mall’d out, so I caught a tuk-tuk back to Subodha’s. I pondered going to the National Museum, but didn’t feel I had the attention span for it. Also, I was starting to worry about packing.

DSCN1156So I spent lunch and the remainder of the day at the house, chatting off and on with Talini’s parents and family, playing with Akita, and learning to make string hoppers. It turns out Talini had had her mom go shopping for me, so I am going to be bringing home the apparatus and flour to make string hoppers! I can’t wait to give it a try…

Packing went well and I had a nice last phone call with Jutta, during which we caught up on our various travel plans and thoughts and I got to speak briefly with Sophie too. I told Jutta to hint to Beny to give me a call on my last night in the country. Don’t ask me why, but I felt unable to call him. Since we hadn’t ever been a serious “thing” I wasn’t sure how to vocalize how much I missed him without sounding overly dramatic and attached. So, I settled for sending him a ‘good bye and safe journeys’ text message and went to bed somewhat early, since Subodha had arranged to have a taxi pick me up at 1am. I woke up at 12:30am, turned off the phone and put it in the closet (Beny had loaned me his) and headed downstairs with my packs.

DSCN1148

So long, Sri Lanka!

 

Thursday, 7 June

The trip to the airport was uneventful and after an interminable wait at the check-in counter, things went very smoothly. My big pack weighed in at 15.1 kilos, or about 30 pounds – not too bad! There were desktop computers in the waiting hall with free internet, so I messed around with Facebook and e-mails and scanning the international news sites until we were allowed into our gate area. There, we waited until an hour past our takeoff time before boarding. I snoozed on and off for the four hour flight, sure that I would miss my connecting flight to Istanbul and thus forfeit on the other plans I’d made for the day.

I decided that instead of ‘figuring it out on the go’ as usual, I would sign on to a tour for my one week in Turkey. Yesterday I spent quite a bit of time online, booking a gulet boat cruise and Cappedoccia tour and buying a ticket from Istanbul to Fethiye. Besides the flight, I should have everything taken care of, which will be a nice change of pace. It’s a different type of travel but I‘m not going the expensive route and both the cruise and the hiking are things I want to do, so I’m letting myself be a pampered tourist this time.

We’ll see how it goes! I made my connecting flight in Dubai, just, and am now enroute to Istanbul. We should arrive on time and I’ll have about two and a half hours until my flight to Dalaman, where I’ll have to catch a bus to Fethiye and then find my way to Fethiye Guest House for my dorm bed reservation. Tomorrow I’ll board my gulet for a four day, three night cruise!

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Sri Lanka: Week 4

 

Saturday, 26 May

DSCN0794When we met some of the other foreign volunteers last night, one couple offered to give us a walking tour of Jaffna, so today we took them up on it. Wendy and William are an older couple, very chatty and comfortable in their roles as foreigners. They’ve learned a bit of Tamil. Wendy does social work with the adults here and had a lot to say regarding PTSD and the ongoing war… perhaps the major war is over, she says, but the after-war is not. There are still disappearances, torture and DSCN0814subjugation that are part of everyday life. It’s hard to hear and take in. They took us to see the old Dutch fort ruins, various lanes of town, a local market, a Hindu temple. For lunch, we ate at Malay Café, which was delicious. They serve you on a banana leaf instead of a plate, and you eat with your hands. It’s rice and dahl and curry and various vegetables and a sort of deep fried, salted pepper which was particularly tasty. We walked a bit more and had some ice cream, a relief after the terrifically hot day.

The rest of the day was spent cooling off at Gerd and Maria’s. We helped them make pizza and set up for a dinner get-together that night, and we got to meet even more volunteers and workers. It was a lot of fun and once more I was reminded of how nice it was to be couchsurfing!

Sunday, 27 May

The three of us – Jutta, Beny and I – decided that this was the day to go visit Delft Island. Off we went to town, ready to find the bus to the ferry and take the ferry to the island. Simple, right?! Hah!

First off, unlike any of the other places in Sri Lanka that we’ve been, it’s hard to get a tuk-tuk in Jaffna. Eventually we were able to convince one to take us to the bus stand, but then we had a hell of a time finding a bus that went to the ferry. Part of the problem is the language barrier, which is a bit thicker here than in the south part of the island. People didn’t seem to understand what we meant when we said “Ferry to Delft.” Eventually, we got on a bus and took a forty minute ride to the ferry. There, we waited for perhaps thirty minutes in a cement room with a whole crowd of folks. When we were allowed to start DSCN0862boarding, there was the usual hustle-bustle of standing in line. The “ferry” turned out to be a wooden boat, which we climbed into and sat or stood inside. There were windows – not glass windows, just open spaces – but for the most part it was stuffy and hot in there. At first, things didn’t seem so bad: sure, it was crowded and stinky, but as the boat moved out and started the journey to Delft, wind came through the windows. I stood, preferring to have my face close to the fresh air and being able to see the horizon. At some point, Beny wrangled his way to a place where he could stand on the steps with his upper body outside. I joined him there until I was soaked to the bone; the waters got rough and the little wooden boat started tossing and bouncing.

Jutta looked at me at one point and said, “This is suicide.” I couldn’t really hear her but I could understand her anyway. Water splashed in through the windows now and my hands cramped from gripping the window ledges so tight. My legs got used to the rearing of the boat and I made sure to inhale as the front of the boat reared up and exhale as it slammed back down. I spit salt water out every few minutes, wiping my face. Jutta clambered over and around people to stick her head out into the wind, feeling nauseous. Beny’s face was stoic but he didn’t say much for the entire hour and a half trip.

At one point, as my stomach started roiling along with the waters outside, a man behind me started singing. At first this didn’t seem odd to me, as I was singing to myself, too, to distract myself from my stomach. However, his voice soon rose in both pitch and volume and I began to pick out some words. It was no song, but a prayer to Krishna, a Hindu god. It went on and on, his wailing voice terrified, until abruptly he began to vomit. Loudly. My own stomach seemed ready to sympathetically join his. I could help it… I started to laugh. I covered my face with one hand, the other hanging on for dear life, and giggled, my eyes tearing up. I managed to not puke, even though the man continued to vomit at high volume for a long while.

DSCN0830We arrived to Delft two hours later and staggered off the boat, glad we hadn’t eaten anything much that morning. As it turned out, we only had two hours until the last return boat departed, so we got some water and soda at the only shop there, and then hired a tuk-tuk to do a speed tour of the island. None of us expected Delft to be as large as it was, but it was an interesting zoom around the place anyway. We saw ruins and criss-crossing walls all made of corals; “wild” horses supposedly DSCN0836descended from the Dutch breeds from long ago settlement; a hospital; beautiful stretches of beach; a baobob tree with a trunk we could stand inside; and some odd local “sights” like a hold in the ground vaguely in the shape of a footprint, and a statue or coral coming up from the ground that is revered for some reason. Throughout the day I felt vaguely ill, not able to throw off the nausea of the earlier boat ride and dreading the return trip. Beny chatted with a Sri Lankan Navy guy at one point and found that most people don’t like to travel to or from Deflt at this time of year, since the seas are too rough. Good to know…

The ride back to Jaffna wasn’t as bad. The boat trip was calmer and we managed to sit up on the top of the roof. Jutta and I had to push our way there, because they didn’t seem to allow women up there, but eventually we joined Beny and had a quick and windy ride back. Near the end we had to go down into the under-area and suck in the diesel fumes, but it only lasted about ten minutes. The bus back to Jaffna didn’t leave for about twenty minutes, but eventually we got back to rest and recover back at Gerd & Maria’s. For dinner, we went to Mango’s, which had come highly recommended but we weren’t terribly impressed. I was too hungry, and thus grumpy, plus tired and hot, so I could hardly eat.

We had decided it was time to head to Trincomalee, so we took a night bus. We didn’t book the night bus but had been told if we showed up an hour before departure we’d be ok. This turned out not to be true: although they found us seats at first, within five minutes of the bus starting out we were led to the front of the bus to manage as well as we could. Jutta and I sat on the engine compartment next to the driver while Beny sat on the floor by the door. Part way, I switched with Beny for the remainder of the ride, since I knew I would even doze, let alone sleep. At border control, we had to show passports again, and I attracted the attention of a young Army guard who told me to write my number on a form and then put his number into my phone. I was groggy and tired and confused, but just did as he told me. The trip took about seven hours, so we arrived in Trinco around 4:30am. One of the expats we’d met with Gerd and Maria owned a hotel and was also on the bus, so we all tuk-tuk’d together and she put us into a triple. As you might expect, we passed out. 

Monday, 28 May

DSCN0867We awoke late in the morning, hungry and groggy. We wandered out and were welcomed with a view of the beach, just thirty feet away. Jo, owner with husband Fernando of Aqua Inns, took our order for breakfast and we sat up in an elevated tiki lounge to drink tea and eat. The rest of the day was spent napping and sunning and swimming: heaven! Beny started his open water diving certification course, which impressed me since I was exhausted. Jutta and I hung out for the day together just being vegetables in the sun. It was truly fabulous.

DSCN0874It turned out Sophie was in Trinco also, just down the beach a short ways, so we all met up for dinner at a local Italian place. I thought it was pretty good, if a bit pricey, though Beny wasn’t quite as keen on it. It was good to meet up with Sophie again, too. We all walked back to our hotels along the beach, but I stayed out on the sand listening to the waves and dancing to the occasional beats from a nearby place. It was a lovely evening and I slept really well that night.

Tuesday, 29 May

I got up early for breakfast and then went scuba diving with Jutta. We had two nice dives with fun fish and corals. Nothing incredible, but one stingray and lots of moray eels and DSCN0909interesting fish to look at. Later, I went into Trinco with Jutta and Sophie, bought bus tickets for Beny and I for the following night, got some cash and generally just wandered around town. We saw the inner harbor, a huge natural one, and met a guy who called himself a mini Michael Jackson; he could make a pretty cool beat-box sound! And he also decided he should come home with me, the American. The three of us smiled and laughed and eventually turned him away, heading for the Hindu temple of Swami Rock, which was pretty cool. We met Beny for dinner at Green Park hotel, which served delicious north Indian food.

Our really confusing adventure of the day happened during the tuk-tuk ride home. We crammed four of us in, which you’re not supposed to do, and we were just a dozen feet from our hotel when an Army truck pulled us over. They were stern and wouldn’t explain anything to us, though they did shine their cell phone lights in our faces and ask where we were from, why we were there. They started to insist the tuk-tuk go somewhere, with us in it, but eventually let us out. We still have no idea what was going on but they drove away with the tuk-tuk driver. It was a bit scary, to be honest, especially after hearing the stories in Jaffna. I hope we didn’t get the tuk-tuk driver in trouble. I walked Sophie back to her place, close on the beach, then spent time by myself on the beach, sharing salt with the waves. I really like being on the beach!

Wednesday, 30 May

DSCN0925Today was another beach day: tiki lounge for breakfast of scrambled eggs and toast, tea and fruit salad while watching the ocean, another dive to see interesting corals but not so many fish, swimming, walking along the beach, sunning… all is well in the world. We all checked out early, Beny and I putting our bags in the manager’s office for safekeeping and Jutta moving to another guest house. Beny and I head to Colombo tonight to renew our visas, while Jutta will stay and dive. Jo printed out DSCN0948the forms for us, which was really nice. We all (including Sophie) went out for dinner, a cheap one tonight of kotthu rotti. Once more, I couldn’t eat much, although hungry. I was really out-of-it feeling.  Later in the evening we said good-bye to everyone and headed into town, which is a bit of a tuk-tuk ride away, to catch our AC luxury night bus. This was the first time we planned ahead and bought tickets ahead, so we were hopeful of a comfy ride, especially given our last night bus!

The bus was nice, with somewhat comfy leather seats covered with plastic wrap and a god amount of AC. About fifteen minutes before the bus was scheduled to leave, I decided to run to a nearby Food City (grocery store) to buy snacks and water. Wouldn’t you know it, about twenty feet from the bus I managed to kick the stuffing out of something concrete, making me literally see starts and fear for my big toe, which went numb momentarily. I hobbled on to the Food City, bought some Snickers bars, cold water, cookies and gauze and tape. My toe was a bloody mess and was throbbing, although it didn’t feel broken. I hobbled back to the bus and clambered into it, sniffled down the aisle and sat down next to Beny. He took one look at me and asked what was wrong. I just pointed at my toe, which I’d poured water on but which was still bleeding and ugly. I managed to get it cleaned up using toilet paper and the gauze and tape, then promptly burst into tears. Beny hugged me and comforted me as I bawled about not doing anything right. He did his best but eventually broke out laughing, which made me start to giggle, too. A few minutes later, the bus was on its way.

Aside from my toe hurting and the loud music or terrible soundtrack from a movie, which they alternated all night, it was a decent bus ride. At least it was cool and we had seats!

Thursday, 31 May

We arrived in Colombo at 4:30am and took a tuk-tuk to Suboda’s. A two hour nap and a shower later, I was up again to go to the visa renewal center. It wasn’t too painful a process, despite my worries: I was taking not just my passport but Beny’s and I wasn’t sure they’d go for it. Beny was at Apollo hospital, a private Colombo hospital. A few weeks ago he fell down some steps and really scraped up his shins, and one of those scrapes started to look pretty funky, so he decided to have it checked out (with the recommendations of both Jutta and his mother, who are doctors). Anyway, it took time but wasn’t really any problem; it took about two hours to do the whole shebang. My visa renewal cost $100 USD and Beny’s cost $18, both of which had to be paid in rupees, which meant another visit to an ATM.

I was hungry and tired, my toe hurt, it was hot, I had a bit of a sickish feeling. So, I went straight back to Subodha’s and napped alongside Beny, had a cleaned up wound and was on two types of antibiotics. Lunch was fried rice and veggies and Pizza Hut veggie pizza, delivered. I decided our laundry just had to be done (everything smelled bad) so out I went with Talini and Akita. We visited a laundromat, where they stated that it would take two days, which didn’t work for us. Talini said she had a washing machine but didn’t know how to use it, so we went home and decided to give it a try.

It really took some doing: the machine was not hooked up to a water source, so I started filling it with buckets of water from the shower. At first, it didn’t look like it was filling at all, but eventually the water level rose. Next, I dumbed in all the laundry and a liberal amount of laundry powder. We turned on the power and pressed start…. nothing. It hummed, but that was it. We tried changing all the settings, unplugging it, settling the laundry more evenly… nothing. We decided to give it time to hum and work things out, so I went up to the room. I sat down on the bed and told Beny, who was cooling off under the fan and reading a book, that laundry machines really aught to wash laundry. He looked up, started giggling, and once again did his best to comfort me. Eventually I broke down and joined the giggle-fest.

When I went back downstairs, the machine hadn’t done a thing. Talinin, never one to give up, suggested putting more water in, which I secretly thought was silly. It worked, though: one more bucket of water and the thing started churning away! After the wash cycle we drained it and refilled it with rinse water; after that we drained it and put it on spin; and after that we put it on spin-dry. I dragged Beny down to hang it all up to dry overnight. We had dinner with the family: potato curry and rice and vegetables.

Friday, 1 June

Today I went off shopping for gifts to take home. I visited a place called Lanka Hands first, then walked around and visited Laksala (a government run souvenir place) and one or two other places. Lanka Hands was the best, in my opinion, and I got several small things to bring back. I met Beny for lunch (he had been off figuring out how to do an Indian visa) in Colombo Fort, where he’d bought tickets for the night train for that night. After lunch, we lazed around at Subodha’s for the day; in the evening, we hired a tuk-tuk to the train station, picked up snacks and water, got on the AC car of the train and settled in. It was nice having assigned seats on the train and the AC was great. Yep, we’re spoiled tourists! Ah well, we’re doing too much night travel to torture ourselves too much with the heat and bugs.

The night train wasn’t too bad, although the ride was very bumpy for the last hour or two. It was a seven hour train ride. At least there was no loud music!

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